Top pairings
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Pairing wine and artichokes (updated)
Artichokes are frequently described as a “wine-killer,” but is that reputation deserved? While it’s true that artichokes can make dry white wines taste unexpectedly sweet, the problem is somewhat exaggerated.
As with other ingredients the key to finding a good pairing is looking at how artichokes are prepared and served.
The hardest way is the classic serving of boiled artichokes with a vinaigrette which defeats most wines other than very dry white wines and rosés. (Fino and manzanilla sherry are much better)
But these days artichokes are prepared in many other ways - served raw or grilled, as a pizza topping or with other ingredients such as lamb or Mediterranean vegetables. Which means you can go for wines you might not expect.
Take, for example, the innovative approach of Simi Winery in California. They found that chargrilling artichokes and serving them with garlic mayonnaise made for a perfect match with their Sauvignon Blanc. This technique, along with serving artichokes raw or paired with rare meats, can help mitigate the sweetening effect that artichokes often have on wine. it would also go with this artichoke and preserved lemon dip.
In Venice and across northern Italy, artichokes are often incorporated into creamy risottos, which pair beautifully with wines like Soave or Bianco di Custoza and, further south, with Trebbiano as I discovered from this pairing at a spectacular artichoke dinner at Bocca di Lupo in London.
Similarly a palate coating ingredient such as olive oil, butter or an egg or butter-based sauce such as hollandaise will make an artichoke-based pairing easier. You basically play to the sauce rather than the artichoke.
If you’re dressing them with an oil-based dressing adding a little finely grated lemon peel seems to help as does wine-friendly grated parmesan or parmesan shavings or even sheep cheese as in this salad of raw artichoke and Berkswell cheese which went with a crisp citrussy white. I’d serve a similar wine with an artichoke-topped pizza.
Strong dry rosés such as Tavel are also a good match for braised artichokes as are some orange wines as you can see from this pairing with braised cuttlefish and artichokes.
Can you ever pair red wine with artichokes?
If artichokes and white wine are a tricky pairing, red wine is surely even more so?
Not always! About 12 or so years ago my late husband who was cooking served up that most difficult of dishes - artichokes vinaigrette (boiled artichokes with vinaigrette) and cracked open a bottle of red wine.
I thought he was mad but astonishingly the pairing worked.
The wine was a full-bodied (14%) Bordeaux blend called Quela* from a producer called Klinec in Brda, Slovenia. It was a biodynamic wine, made with indigenous yeasts from organic grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and aged for two years in cherry casks with the minimum of added sulphur (25mg). It had a really bright fruit character (bitter cherry and wild bramble) and must have been totally dry as neither the artichoke or the vinaigrette had any impact on it at all. It just stayed intense and vivid.
Would it work with other wines, other Bordeaux blends? Maybe not younger ones - this bottle was from the 2007 vintage - but if you were serving artichokes with lamb which is common, absolutely!
Maybe natural wines - and Cabernet Franc in particular - are the answer - provided they’re to your taste, of course.
By the way, for what it’s worth, it was a leaf day!
Anyone else had success with red wine and artichokes?

Which food to pair with South African chenin blanc
You might think it odd to pick out South African Chenin rather than Chenin Blanc in general but I do think the wines are distinctive, particularly when it comes to the crisper styles which are much zestier than they tend to be in the Loire
It struck me while I was there that food matching with Chenin is quite easy to explain. Treat young, fresh unoaked styles like Sauvignon Blanc - in other words think about seafood and salads and richer, fuller styles in the same way as white burgundy or Viognier.
Here are some suggestions - some of which will, of course, apply to other Chenin Blancs.
Fresh crisp young zesty Chenin Blanc
All kinds of fresh seafood including crab, prawns and, most particularly, oysters
Seafood tartares like tuna tartare or salmon and avocado tartare
In fact, avocado generally
Smoked salmon or trout
Fish and chips
Salt and pepper squid
Fish patés
Sushi
Spring vegetables like asparagus and peas (see this pairing with asparagus mousse at Rust-en-Vrede)
Salads, especially chicken, cheese or ham salads or ones containing apples or pears. Chenin Blanc can handle an element of fruit
Light seafood pasta dishes and risottos
Goats cheese
Medium bodied smooth or old vine Chenin Blanc (made more in the style of an unoaked Chardonnay or a Pinot Blanc) will work with many of the dishes above but also:
Scallops (wonderful with Chenin)
Simply cooked fish dishes
Fishcakes
Cooked egg dishes like quiches, frittatas and omelettes
Onion tart
Mild cheeses like Caerphilly and white-rinded cheeses like Brie so long as they're not too ripe.
Richer, fuller styles more similar to an oaked chardonnay or Viognier:
Almost anything with a creamy sauce - a good fish pie, for example or chicken with a cream and mushroom sauce.
Richer fish dishes such as salmon en croute
Scallops (again)
Lobster
Roast chicken
Roast pork belly, especially with apple sauce
Roast root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips and sweet potatoes
Roast butternut squash
Medium-dry chenins with a touch of sweetness
Can handle spicy food particularly those containing some kind of fruit such as Cape Malay or other mild, fruity curries
Southeast Asian-inspired salads
Gravadlax - Chenin is one of the few wines that can handle that devilishly difficult sweet mustard sauce
Sweet chenin
Always wonderful with apple or pear tarts
Peach and apricot-flavoured desserts like a peach and blueberry cobbler
And try with cheese served with a fruit compote like this white cheddar and spiced apricot compote
Photo © M.Studio - Fotolia.com
Do you have any favourite pairings for Chenin I've missed out?

The best food pairings for white rioja
White rioja is tricky when it comes to wine pairing as it comes in such contrasting styles. There are the crisp fresh unoaked white riojas which behave much like a sauvignon blanc and much richer barrel-fermented ones which can tackle more intensely-flavoured fish and meat dishes
The latter are more characteristic of the region but even these vary depending on the age of the wine. Young ones behave much like a chardonnay with food, older ones - and white rioja does age magnificently - more like a white Rhône
Here are some of my favourite pairings:
Crisp unoaked white rioja
simply grilled fish and shellfish
garlicky prawns or grilled squid
gazpacho
Spanish-style salads
Barrel-aged white riojas of 2-3 years old
almonds
serrano and other Spanish ham
salt cod dishes such as croquetas
menestra (spring vegetable stew) and other braised vegetable dishes
paella and other rice dishes with saffron
dishes with aioli (garlic mayonnaise)
white asparagus
tortilla and other savoury egg dishes
More mature barrel-aged riojas
rich fish dishes such as roast turbot
hake with garlic and clams
grilled tuna
robust fish stews
grilled lobster and other rich lobster dishes like this experimental dish of lobster and sweetcorn
roast chicken, turkey or guineafowl
sautéed chicken dishes with sherry
chicken or pork dishes with creamy sauces
grilled pork or veal chops
Full-flavoured sheeps cheeses like this rosemary coated ewe’s milk cheese
Also see these excellent suggestions from Vina Tondonia
See also The best food pairings for red rioja

Which beers to drink at Easter
You may find family and friends resistant to the idea of putting beer on the Easter table (though some will be secretly pleased) but stick to your guns.
The more your guests see how great beer is with different types of food the more confident they’ll feel about serving it themselves and the less likely it is that the only beer you’ll find when you go to their house is a Bud. So, here goes:
Turkey
Roast turkey is a very beer-friendly dish. I particularly like it with Duvel and with the Scottish golden lager Schiehallion but you could pair it with any kind of golden ale or lager such as Budweiser Budvar from the Czech republic or with a Belgian or Northern French blonde ale, the beer world’s equivalent of chardonnay. Amber ales and lagers work well too.
Lamb
Two ways to go here - you could go for a strong Trappist beer like Orval, Chimay Rouge or a French bière de garde (the equivalent of a full bodied red) or a slightly sour red ale such as Duchesse de Bourgogne (think pinot noir)
Duck
Surprisingly, given how different a type of meat it is, the beers I’ve recommended above with lamb would work with duck too. If you were feeling particularly daring you could offer a cherry or raspberry beer. Duck and cherries? Classic.
Chocolate
Better with beer than with wine, many think but I’m not sure that most beer fans favourite choice, porter, isn’t too heavy for this time of year. Again a raspberry or cherry-flavoured fruit beer could well work particularly if you serve fresh berries with the dessert
Lemon tart
I’ve already focussed on the problems intensely lemony desserts pose for wine and beer certainly isn’t any easier. Hey, why not just eat it on its own?
Eggs
A witbier, bière blanche or other light, cloudy wheat beer is generally regarded as the best match for brunch dishes. Since it’s also good with smoked and cold salmon, spring vegetables such as asparagus and salads it’s well worth having a few bottles around.
You may also find this post useful:
Which wines to drink at Easter
Image by Oscar Trompenaars from Pixabay

The best wine and beer pairings for savoury pies
We Brits don’t need much encouragement to eat pies—they’re a staple of comfort food culture. But when it comes to enjoying a drink with your pie, the question arises: which is the better match—wine or beer? The answer, as always, depends on the type of pie you’re talking about and the flavours it brings to the table.
Steak pies with gravy
Almost always better with a strong ale or porter in my opinion.
Steak pies with red wine sauce
Should work with any full-bodied red. I normally tend to favour Languedoc or Rhône-style reds but a new world red like a malbec or an Australian shiraz would work well too
Chicken pies with a creamy filling
I’d go for an unoaked or subtly oaked Chardonnay, old vine Chenin Blanc or any other smooth dry white. Cider and perry also work well with chicken pies.
Pies with a tomatoey filling
Whatever the other ingredients I generally find cooked tomato works better with wine than with beer - I’d suggest an Italian Sangiovese or a Tempranillo-based red like Rioja, especially if there’s chorizo in it.
Cheese and spinach pies
I generally prefer crisp whites such as Sauvignon Blanc or even a more neutral white such as a Picpoul de Pinet with a light vegetarian pie like this but a light red like a Beaujolais would be delicious too.
Fish pies
Pair with the same sort of wines as creamy chicken pies.
Cold pies
With a classic pork pie I’d always go for an English bitter. A cold game pie however is a great match for a good red burgundy or Pinot Noir.
Photo © Richard M Lee at Shutterstock
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